Mercedes W203 Subwoofer Install4/29/2021
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Use of the Mercedes C230 wiring information is at your own risk. Always verify all wires, wire colors and diagrams before applying any information found here to your 2005 Mercedes C230. No crunching is a good start I would hang on to your old good door speaker for future use too. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding. So it starts from 150Hz and goes down but I personally dont like my subwoofer doing 150Hz as I feel it is too high. One way of tuning a system is to play music through it all with the gain at zero and the LPF at highest (so 150Hz), then raise the gain until the sound meets the same volume as the rest of the system and then adjust the LPF until it sounds like the rest of the speaker are doing what they should and the sub is doing the lower order that you cant hear from the other speakers. Mercedes W203 Subwoofer Driver Seat AndThats why having a control is useful as you will mostly hear the music from the driver seat and thats where you want to be making the adjustments. You cant really damage anything unless you wire up something wrong spectacularly or drive the volume up too loud. Id always triple check what you have wired to where to ensure you did it right though. The amp is turning on and off as it should and I can hear the fan running so I guess that is working. Im sure everything is plugged in correctly but I suppose its pull everything out and triple check all the connections. What are the specifications for the amp you bought (namely the impedance capabilities) On the back of that subwoofer, it has 4 4 Ohm, which means a 2 Ohm load bridged (which is how you have wired it i.e. Maybe amps at the lower end of the spectrum cant handle 2 Ohms-bridged so I wonder if there is a problem there. Impedance (measured in Ohms) is the load of the subwoofer i.e. We wired in parallel because you want the speaker to be loud enough but if the amp cannot drive a 2 Ohm-bridged load, it wont work. We cant easily tell how it was wired in the first place as the 4 wires just run off back to the amp - and I would presume parallel from that but dont know for sure. In a nutshell, the higher the impedance, the easier something is to drive but the quieter it is. Mercedes W203 Subwoofer Series As TheSo you could try wiring it in series as the load would then be 8 Ohm. To wire it in series, you wire amp to sub, sub- to the other sub, sub- to amp-. Before you do any of that though, do you have a speaker you could wire the outputs of the amp to to test it is working (even a speaker from a house stereo) You can use any old speaker (not tweeter unless it has a capacitor HPF on it) to test it - just loud enough so you hear a sound. ![]() I would never assume anything is working until you have tested it as you can waste a lot of time with assumptions. Ive done the flex test on the sub and cant hear anything rubbing or crunching. Ohm Stereo: 2 x 70 Watts RMS. Ohm Stereo: 2 x 90 Watts RMS. Ohm Mono: 1 x 180 Watts RMS. Ive got the good rear door speaker still so Ill see if I get any noise out of it when Ive got 5 minutes Ill also get the head unit out and make sure everything is still connected up behind that. It can only do 4 Ohm bridged Its not what I would call a strong amp but it should be more than adequate to drive a single 8 DVC woofer acting as a subwoofer So try your good door speaker with the setup as you have it now as that will either be 4 Ohm or 6 Ohm I would think and it should work. If it does, re-wire the sub in series as per my last post and it will work, assuming the sub actually works.
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